Cheap and Easy: DIY Terrain
Apr 27, · Hopefully this inspired you to make some new terrain or emboldened you to perhaps run an event, or hook up your local game store with some nice terrain. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more. And remember, Frontline Gaming sells gaming products at a discount, every day in their webcart! Posted on April 27, by Cavalier in 30K, 40K, Age. To actually make the terrain buildings with 3D digital models, you either 1) download the files for 3D printing (if you have a 3D printer), or 2) use the 3D models as a blue print for scratch building with available materials. When you want to download pre-made buildings and terrain you merely have do .
To create this article, 30 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewedtimes. Learn more Mske games are the most fun when you have an active imagination. If you are creative you can take how to make gaming terrain simple, ordinary objects and turn them into incredible battle environments.
All it takes is a lot of glue, paint, and patience. Once you get the hang of it, you will find yourself looking at everything in terms of how you can use it to create your models. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log how to check your woolworths store card balance with your username or email to continue.
You will need dedicated bins for supplies, and a surface tergain you can cut, glue and paint on. You are very likely to create a mess, and will be working with a number of materials that can be hazardous or dangerous to leave around children or pets. Find a cardboard box, foam core, styro or plywood to create your base. The board should be rigid, light and thin. The base must be big enough to support your entire object. Outline the desired shape for your terrain base.
Use a pencil to make the desired shape. It is best to have an idea of the best shape and size for your terrain. If you are just building a ho for a tree, a round shape will be most efficient. If you are doing a cubic building, you will probably want something that is more square. You may need to take some measurements of your terrain object before creating the base. Cut the shape out from the board.
You can use scissors to cut out the shape on a cardboard base. Gamingg you have a thicker material like plywood, you might need to use a sharp knife to cut. Cover the edges with tape. Do not use a tape with a glossy, non-stick surface. You want the paint to be able to stick. Paint the base using an enamel paint. You can choose a green color for natural grass look or gray for a rock or concrete type of texture. Choose something appropriate to your piece and then apply it over the entire surface.
Do not use a water-based paint or glue on terrain bases. These paints shrink when drying and can warp the surface of the mxke. Method 2 of Use foam board to how to make gaming terrain the walls of buildings. Foam board will make it easier to cut out windows and doorway shapes with precision. It is easier to make any modifications to your design before terraun the building. Be sure you are satisfied how to make gaming terrain your mame before proceeding.
Draw your design on the foam board before cutting. Use a pencil to outline the doorways and windows. Design the walls. You can just make the foam board wall pieces the same size if you want an intact structure, or you can design walls that are partially destroyed from being in a war zone.
If you are new to crafting Warhammer terrain, designing ruins is a good bow to start. Even if you mess it up you can work around it since the building is supposed to be destroyed anyway. Fit the walls together at what are really good books to read corner. You can trim away the gaminf at the edge of one wall, then fit the other wall into the corner.
This will conceal the gap between the foam board pieces and make it look more realistic. Be sure to get the what did the virginia plan do lined up what does pemdas stand for in math how you want them.
Then, add some glue then fit the two walls together. Hot glue will dry the fastest and allow you to keep working. Be sure makd let the glue dry completely before painting so you don't ruin your brushes by getting glue in them. Create details with recycled objects. Use straws to create realistic looking pipes coming out of the rubble of your building.
Break down some styrofoam packaging to create debris, bricks, rubble, impact craters, or rocks. Start with a simple object or design, and use these creative details to build a more elaborate scenery.
Save all your small pieces of foam. You can use small pieces to shape in random bricks and rubble to add more detail to your terrain. Using the same materials you can shape ot board in a raised circle and attach it to a base to create a blast crater. Set aside and prepare for painting. Visit model train shops. Many terrain objects, such as trees, can be found ready-made at a hobby shop.
While many train modeling pieces will add a great touch to your Warhammer terrain, just be sure to select pieces that are durable enough for gaming purposes. Check out garage sales. They offer a cheap way to find lots of materials that can be incorporated into your Warhammer terrain. Take an old action figure, mount it on a tin cup, give it a little gray paint, and you have the beginning of a statue.
The possibilities of what you can create are limited only by your imagination. Method 3 of Apply a coat of latex paint with sand to create textures. If you desire a more realistic appearance to concrete or rock structures, coat the entire surface with this paint mixture.
Use a large brush to apply the paint with vertical strokes for best results. You will do this step before priming because you are just trying to create a layer of texture over the surface of your buildings. The color will not matter. You can buy paint that is makee mixed with sand at craft and hobby stores. You can also make some on your own. Just add a small pinch of sand to start with. More sand can be added depending on your desired appearance. Seal with a primer.
Cover the entire surface with a liberal coat. This will provide a good surface for your paint to be applied. Use a black primer to provide a base for darker surfaces like rocks and buildings. Use a white primer for light-colored surfaces.
Create visual details by dry-brushing different shades. Dry-brush is applying paint to a piece with a brush that has dried but still holds paint. Shades of brown can be useful to create mud or dirt. It might take many layers to look exactly like you want. A skilled piece can take up to 30 hours to paint. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
Introduction: Modular Tabletop Terrain Boards
I recommend that you base all of the smaller terrain pieces as this will improve their balance along with visuals. Just remember to never use cardboard for basing as it usually bends over time. The recommended materials are: plasticard, plywood (both can be seen in the picture above). – Utility. Gaming terrain is supposed to be gamed upon. The Games Workshop's Void Shield Generator is a splendid kit but only if you build it differently than recommended on the box. I show step by step how to make a piece of industrial terrain from it, rather than the nouveau riche Christmas tree as recommended officially. After you have mixed the glue and water apply it to you hill. Id say apply it to 3/4 of your hill but only add the sand to half of the hill. This keeps some of the sand out of your brush. Then reapply some more glue/water mix to the other half and finish applying texture.
Hey guys Cavalier here, commission painter for Frontline Gaming and co-host of Splintermind the Dark Eldar Podcast back again, this time with a terrain tutorial.
My approach to this is super easy and you can bang out the basic construction of an entire tables worth of terrain in a single sitting and get it painted to a tabletop standard just as quickly. That being said its a pretty decent size line-of-sight blocker and all the techniques applied to this piece, can be applied to pieces of LOS blocking terrain as well. So we start off with some simple stuff, pink insulation foam board you can pick up from any big hardware store and a foam cutter!
I also use a big knife to cut the pieces straight from time to time. Any old knife will do. Note: Please click on the image for additional details at full res! Here is the foam cutter I use as well. I love this guy, this particular model is really handy for cutting stuff at weird angles. Then just take a marker and mark off the dimensions of the piece. A BIG tip is to make the initial footprint of the piece a good deal bigger than you want it to be in the end.
The next step is getting out there, firing up the old hot-wire cutter and attacking this bad boy. The key here is to take off all the sharp edges as you want this piece to look natural and 90 degree angles are super rare in nature. After you get the basic shape down, you are going to do the first bit of weathering on this sucker. The key is to cut into the piece at an angle to make a natural sloping effect to it.
Here is how it looks applied to both levels of this mini-mountain. At this stage its important to note, its not all about aesthetics. You gotta put miniatures on these things so make sure there is enough room for your little dudes to get around!
I cut notches into the piece to fit the old terrain bits in there and just jammed the sucker in there. As you can see on those two top spires, they are super weathered.
I just take an old screwdriver and hack the thing up. You can gouge into with a stabbing motion to get the little craters, or drag the flat edge of the screwdriver down the piece to create a crumbled, rubble type look, or just push the flat edge of the screwdriver hard against the foam to make unique cracked type areas of damage as well. A lot of people use some kind of Elmers type glue, but I like to use wood glue which you can pick up any store.
I actually use wood glue on the basing for minis as well. After gluing the pieces together, slather that glue all over the flat surfaces of the piece as well, grab some sand, and scatter sand on each level like you were basing one of your own miniatures.
At this point you have to just let the piece sit and dry. I just stick it on a board in my garage and let it sit. Typically it only takes an hour or two for it dry enough so that you can put some spray paint on it. Once the paint is dry just grab a can of cheap black spray paint and give the piece a moderate coat of black spray paint. After it dries just a bit , you can immediately grab a bucket of house paint of any color and paint over all the foam bits. This is what it looks like at this stage:.
Now you have to let the piece sit overnight. Not to worry though you are almost at the finish line and depending on what standard you want the piece painted there may be only one more step involved!
I save my old pots of paint just for the sake of use on terrain. The first color I always use is Dawnstone Grey. Eshin Grey is the natural highlight above black, but its hardly visible at a distance. I like to jump up a level and do the terrain a bit bolder and brighter than I would on a miniature, simply because I throw a lot of colors on to each piece.
And this is what it looks like. Now if you are a TO or running a big narrative game and you are short on time, as you can see this looks very solid as-is with only a single layer of dry brushing. Mountains, hills and other geological formations are never all grey, or all brown.
There are many shades that overlap and we are going to go for that look today. Next up is the final highlight of grey… and one of my favorite colors of all time Celestra Grey! Celestra Grey is amazing. Its one of my favorite paints of all time. Its super opaque and requires no-layering to get an almost a pure white hue on a model. Again there is an in-between shade here, but its not necessary on terrain. The other colors will knock down the contrast later.
As you can see its a dramatic improvement. Again this a stage at which you could simply call this piece complete. Yet I want to add some nice browns in there to make it look part of a living breathing environment. This breaks this big hunking rock up a bit visually and softens the look. The final painting step is hitting it with Pallid Wych Flesh. I highlight this stuff all over the model, including the brown and grey areas of the piece. Its a beautiful final highlight that works on both the grey and brown.
After that you are done painting this sucker! To close it out lets add some greenery to this guy and call it a day! Again I like to use a mix of static grass and classic green flock just to add a little variety to the piece. Anything additional I may want to add on this piece I can do day of game using scatter terrain such as little rocks and lichen just to add a little more detail. In my games I use this as a piece of area terrain and for purposes of blocking LOS.
It also allows you to have a pure wilderness themed board and have good multi-level magic for your snipers, heavy weapon teams, Devastators or Dark Reapers. So guys hope you found this useful. With just some foam boards, a hot wire cutter, a screwdriver, sand and a little paint you make yourself an entire board worth of terrain. Let me know your thoughts down in the comments below. Share any tips and tricks you may have and questions as well.
Hopefully this inspired you to make some new terrain or emboldened you to perhaps run an event, or hook up your local game store with some nice terrain.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more. And remember, Frontline Gaming sells gaming products at a discount, every day in their webcart! Tags: 40K terrain hobby modeling blog. Great article, Cavalier! I also love using pink foam for terrain building and have made probably at least a thousand hills out of them in my day, lol. Thank you for both articles! The one thing I have left that I need to get my battle reports up and running is enough terrain.
No problem bud, thanks for reading. Yeah trying to get a youtube channel going is one of my goals… but I gotta have the terrain. Awesome thanks so much Reece. Both articles should definitley be viewed as companion pieces. Thanks bud! You got it! The paint and sand is the real key, it makes the terrain so much stronger and far less prone to chipping.
Thanks Panda! Its so easy… my brother and I made most of this stuff in 6th edition and its been invaluable. I even bring it with me to my FLGS just to make sure its not planet bowling ball. Anyway thanks man! Excellent guide! Actually, speaking of texturing like that, I find I get a bit of that anyhow because I just use a cheapo kitchen knife to cut the foam up rather than a hot wire cutter. That said, I think you got a bit out of order when talking about undercoating it, tho.
I have found that to make the process of getting them looking good and ready for the tabletop and to withstand the rigors of being used over an extended period of time so much easier. Gotta do this. Thanks again for that tip Reece. Thanks Westrider, appreciate the kind words. Really glad you picked up some tips. Got a bit messed up. Anyway thanks again and I hope it helps you with your terrain! Name Required. Mail will not be published Required.
Email address:. This is what it looks like at this stage: Now you have to let the piece sit overnight. The other colors will knock down the contrast later As you can see its a dramatic improvement. Additional Love To close it out lets add some greenery to this guy and call it a day!