1955 Lincoln Wheat Cent : Doubled-Die Obverse
The doubled die Lincoln penny is one of the most popular error coins produced by the United States Mint. The doubling on the obverse is dramatic and can be seen without the use of magnification. It is most prevalent on the date, the motto "LIBERTY" and "IN GOD WE TRUST.". During minting of the Wheat Penny, one of the most remarkable errors in numismatics occurred. By far the most well-known double die error coin, the DDO Wheat Penny is sought after by coin collectors all across the country. With its unmistakable doubled image on the obverse of the coin, it is one of the easiest errors to see.
Search CCF Members. Active Users. There are currentlyusers on how to remove old grip tape website. Welcome Guest! Need help? Got a question? Inherit some coins? Our coin forum is completely free! Register Now! Wife brought home from the bank where she works 30 rolls of wheat cents a young lady brought in. After going through most of them I have approximately to "" pennies.
Could it be maybe I have a double die in one of them. I know nothing about the double die and maybe if someone could explain how to tell them apart from a regular or upload a picture it would be extremely helpful. I'm a Morgan collector but have a Dansco Lincoln fell that has a few holes left but I'm not a serious Lincoln collector. Will 19555 posting another thread on these Wheatie rolls I got. And to answer any questions, No I haven't gotten nothing great out of them yet. Found a with a mint mark but cant make out which one it is.
Need some help on the double dies. Report this Post to the Staff. Have a look here. The double die is probably the most famous. Just google it and there will be tons of pictures and if you have one,you will know. The good ones are very obvious. Thanks guys. That was quick. I thought only the date was teol and not the whole side of the coin.
Pretty sure now I don't have te,l but will take how long does it take to get my lottery winnings glance at them. Want you to know that you guys on this forum are great at helping people like me. I've learned a lot so far. Just a note, the poor mans doubled die has a small premium. Check yours for one. OK John1 now you did it!
With everyone's help I thought I had this double die stuff figured out. What the heck is a poor mans double die? It maybe the error I was thinking about. Could you or anyone else post a "poor mans doubled die" for me? Thanks edgman. A poor man's double die has doubling on the lower serif of the eastern 5 of and is pretty common.
Can you provide pictures of your coin? The "Poor Man's" double die is not actually a double. It is the result of Die Deterioration over the course of usage.
You'll see it as a sort of shelf-like doubling of the date to the right. They're very common. They carry a slight premium simply because of the association with their more-famous fellow variety - in any other year, this kind of feature is a non-event.
SuperDave is dead on. I must have a can with 50 of them in it. The only reason they have any premium is because people don't understand what they are looking at and some else gave it a misleading moniker. Jim Eie would appreciate it if you could post a picture on one. And to the others thanks for the help and how much of a premium does this poor mans double die amount to? My dreams of becoming rich from these "" Lincolns I got is suddenly going down the drain.
The person that runs that site, Charles Daughtrey, usually brags about having taken many thousands of photos of Lincoln Cents, has two books out on them, is well known in the Coin World as an authority on Lincoln Cents. I too have almost a roll of those Poor Man's Doubles. Only the last 5 in the date appears to be doubled.
As already noted dje it was any other date, people would just throw them what is a hurricane drink in change. Really nuts. If you found a with a mintmark, it is quite a find. A D ho be the most valuable, but a S is nothing to scoff at either! Both are very desirable dates. If I can get a good picture of this I will try and post it.
You have to see it. The is real clear but where the mint mark is looks now under a heavier magnification like someone scrapped the mark off. That would be stupid to do because both are valuable. Am just learning how to take photos of coins and once I do that I have lots of Morgans to go to the grading forum and will do that Also dje I looked at my profile area. I am not 16 did it said.
Reverse that and add 8. Tried to fix it but would not take new age. Maybe too old. Next Page Last 15 Replies. View Last New Topics. View Last Active Topics. Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Coin Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright - Coin Community Family- all rights reserved worldwide.
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Thanks edgman Report this Post to the Staff. Jim Report this Post what is a galley on a ship the Staff.
Bronze Composite Penny
The motto "IN GOD WE TRUST" and the word "LIBERTY" are very clearly doubled as is the date as depicted in the example image above. It is very hard to miss this error so it is easy to tell the difference between the real one and the "poor mans" doubled die which is no where near as noticeable. USA Coin Book Estimated Value of Lincoln Wheat Penny (Doubled-Die Obverse Variety) is Worth . Apr 13, · After going through most of them I have approximately to "" pennies. Could it be maybe I have a double die in one of them. I know nothing about the double die and maybe if someone could explain how to tell them apart from a regular or upload a picture it would be extremely helpful. If the edges clearly appear doubled, then you have a double-die coin. Step 3 Inspect the numbers of the date for smudges or over-thickness in the lines. If some of the numbers appear blotchier than others, you are seeing polishing errors, not a double-die image.
It is always wise to be very wary of what you purchase, especially when it comes to buying valuable coins. The purpose of this page is to help you determine whether that "king of kings" doubled die you have your eye on is genuine.
The specifics of this document and the photographs that follow are an example of what to watch for in struck counterfeits of valuable coins - this by no means is the only type of counterfeit nor is it the only die with which struck counterfeits are made, so do not pick any specific markers off of the photos of the counterfeit below and read them as being exactly what to look for in determining a doubled die to be counterfeit or genuine.
Since there are other methods and other counterfeit dies used, certification or authentication BEFORE purchase is the only sure way to tell whether you have the "real deal" or a fake. Reading a bit between the lines, you can derive from my statement that you should either VERY WELL know what you are doing in buying an uncertified specimen, or stick to certified slabbed specimens.
The struck counterfeit documented here was sent in by K. Reichert, who was genuinely gracious in allowing me to examine this piece after having received it back from ANACS as a struck counterfeit. Very luckily, he is going to be refunded for this coin, but his case is an exception. MANY people are fooled by these coins because the method used to create them is very close to that which made the genuine specimens.
Without detailed analysis it is very difficult to tell the difference between them. This macro image of the struck counterfeit looks quite convincing. In fact, without magnification it is very difficult even for a seasoned specialist to detect. The only real sign of a counterfeit from this viewpoint is the rim of the coin. If compared to just about any other genuine cent from that era, it is a curiosity that the rim is nearly razor sharp and the edges of the coin are more rounded-off than a genuine cent.
Other than that, this coin without magnification could easily be passed off as genuine. Its weight is within tolerance of a genuine cent 3. Since more detail is required to assess the problems with the counterfeit, I have taken the liberty of using photographs of a genuine doubled die to compare with this struck counterfeit. The genuine doubled die, at the time it was photographed, belonged to collector Jim Hiironen.
I use the genuine coin to compare to the counterfeit more so that you can see the differences side by side, but viewing a genuine coin at the same time as a counterfeit is not entirely necessary nor is it often possible.
In that, it is important that you be able to recognize the characteristics of the counterfeit as it stands alone, not just in a side by side comparison with a known genuine specimen. The first photograph shows immediate problems that will carry forward to other photographs below. Note the thickness difference in the rim as described above. Also notice the acute flatness of the devices on the counterfeit.
They seem rather wide, yet flat. The overall relief is lower, and the devices are the wrong distance from the rim. Another problem that will be revisited throughout these photographs is that some of the devices such as the "D" in this photo are unusually thicker than other devices on the counterfeit. Notice the equal thickness of different features on the genuine coin.
The next image carries forth all of the previously mentioned problems, but adds another problem to the list. Notice the weakness and flatness to the left side of the "W" on the counterfeit.
It is very likely that the planchet used for this coin was not subjected to an upset mill to raise the rim. Rather, the field of the die was curved to assimilate the relief of the rim. When the "W" was hubbed into the die, it was hubbed too closely to the curved rim, thus came out incomplete on top. A genuine doubled die will not show this sort of characteristic anywhere on the coin.
I feel it is very important to stress that this particular problem is evident on the "W" in "WE" on this particular counterfeit, but is by no means an absolute with all struck counterfeits. Weakness may show in a different area of a different counterfeit.
The next image shows another curiosity usually found on counterfeits that will never be found on the genuine doubled does. Notice also that in this particular area of the coin the devices are all more or less properly spaced from the rim. As a side note, the dent in the rim on the genuine specimen is a coin hit, not a feature of the die. The face actually the entire bust shows notable weakness in detail, quite visible in this particular example as a lack of lower nose detail - namely the separation line that shows on the genuine specimen is non-existant on the counterfeit.
The doubling shows above the eye on the counterfeit, but shows a distinct lack of shape to the primary eyelid, another "sign". Notice also the general lack of sharpness to the bridge of the nose, nostril, front of the eye, the crease in the lip, and the crease in front of the cheek.
The list goes on and is evident throughout the design, this photo should be enough to give a general idea of the overall weakness in the counterfeit. The detail in the hair, ear, coat, and shoulder folds also carry this weakness. Notice how the "L" crowds the rim in the counterfeit, and it is quite misshapen by this. Again, this won't necessarily be the case with all struck counterfeits, but something like this may be apparent with any number of them.
Notice also the lack of detail, namely separation lines, in the letters. Oddly enough, though, one of the signs of a genuine doubled die does show here - the angled "cut" across the top of the "E.
A lesson - don't just look for one thing - observe all the details. The last feature to cover on the obverse is the date.
Both coins show the weak top of the 1, an apparent sign on all genuine cents Signs of genuine attributes will often come through on counterfeits. Notice, however, that there is a distinct "cut" between the "1" digits on the counterfeit. Again, a tooling effect probably done to separate the devices from one another to make the finished product look more genuine.
As mentioned above, the date digits appear to be somewhat shallower in the counterfeit, as well as more squared-off in relief. Take note also that one of the markers for a genuine doubled die, the light NW-SE die scratches through the date are not present on the counterfeit. Finally, the reverse. This particular reverse shows a light class 2 doubled die with minor separation showing in the motto and right wheat lines. Of course the genuine doubled dies do not show this doubling.
The relief on the entire reverse is also too shallow for a genuine coin. Interestingly enough, the top of the O in ONE is complete, which is a common weak point in genuine wheat cents. This can be attributed to the low relief being able to strike up more detail with less pressure.
The counterfeit does not show this marker, although it does have die scratches in that area which could be mistaken for the die scratches on the genuine doubled die. One of the problems with using these die scratches as the only key for determining a coin to be real is that often the color or luster or lack of will effectively hide the presence of these scratches.
Weak strike or any number of other slight anomalies can also make them weak and nearly invisible. Also important is the fact that the counterfeit shows a criss-cross pattern of very light and very thin die scratches throughout the reverse, also not present on genuine specimens.
I apologize for the depth of this article, but I wanted it to be perfectly clear from beginning to end that it is VERY important that you know all of the different possible attributes of a counterfeit doubled die, so you would be more aware when shopping for them. I also wanted to stress the importance in knowing that this is only one example die pair, NOT the only one used, so it is of equal importance to remember that the particluar anomalies shown on this counterfeit will not necessarily carry through to all struck counterfeits, and certainly not to cast counterfeits or those made by other, usually more crude methods.
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